An Evening About Town

Paris At Dusk

A few tidbits from Paris at dusk...

Last night I attended a concert at St. Chapelle featuring a String Quintet playing Vivaldi. Absolutely movng in terms of both the setting and the music.

The Stunning Stained Glass at St. Chapelle

I also wandered through the Latin Quarter and plan to return for a dinner or meal at some point.



And fell upon the huge Pantheon which is home to a great number of tombs including Victor Hugo, Rousseau, Voltaire and Marie Curie.

The Pantheon

Mostly just enjoyed walking in the evening air and taking shots here and there.

Extravagances

The Hall of Mirrors

Approaching the Grounds of Chateau Versailles

I am always so intrigued by the wealth and abundance of historic figures, for example, Marie Antoinette and the Kings who inhabited Chateau de Versailles in earlier centuries. Today, I spent a most beautiful day in Versailles, again experiencing the sights through the biking tour company, and again, well worth it! Our day began with a short train ride out to Versailles, bikes and all! We stopped for about an hour in the town of Versailles (separate from the nearby city of Versailles) to attend and purchase picnic goods from a colorful market. Our guide was super at pointing us in the right direction for truly amazing purchases. He even began by suggesting a nourishing pre-market snack of a crepe; my first one and memorable at that. I chose the Grand Marnier and Sugar type and oh my! Such a delight to taste buds, especially when the fellow making them kept adding more of the liqueur!

Cheese! Baguettes!

Onward to the wine market (are you seeing a trend here?) where I chose a fruity red from the Rhone region. Followed by the boulangerie, which I have to say is the best one I've been to yet. I didn't realize that baguettes can be so different from one place to the next. This one was heavenly and just out of the oven. I also bought a chocolate tarte. Onward to some other fresh options, a big back of cherries (under 2 euros!), and some recommended creamy cheese covered in raisins and oh so yummy. But wait, I'm getting ahead of the picnic.
We rode out of the town and circled the sight of the Chateau and it is rather large and beautifully landscaped but also has its own natural terrain. I love thinking about the history that took place where we were, it really is rather surreal. Our guide, Andrew, was really fun and shared interesting information and good tips throughout the tour.
So sitting by the water for our picnic was such a great scene to partake in as it was a warm day and we shared our food, voiced our wine preferences and just got to know the group. It was a delicious spread!!!

Marie Antoinette's Bedroom - can you imagine?

Golden Gates

The actual chateau is huge. Traditionally the gold was real, but it is now painted, as it was sold following the revolution in order for the people to gain some revenue from a country fallen. The extravagance is beyond description within the walls and the photos don't really capture the excess. The hall of mirrors is something else and in its time would have been beyond indulgent. Living in the times would have been quite something, if and only if, you were part of this in-crowd.

The Gardens at Versailles

It was a quick ride from the Chateau back to the townsite and we hopped onto the train back to Paris, rode our bikes back to the tour core and called it a day; and another good one. I'm beat from the heat, the activities and mostly, all that indulgence of food and drink!

The "Art" of the City

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It's hard to believe that the paintings are so large!

I finally made it to the Musee d'Orangerie to find out it was closing in 30 minutes. The guide book I have sure has the hours wrong. What the heck, I did the whirlwind tour (my ticket expired tomorrow and I leave city limits for the day...). Here are some quick pics to get the gist - such a lovely, small museum that was a true delight to view, even in a hurry.

Red Red Wine...and some White...but first, Champagne

Paris became a little blurry for me today! At noon, I attended a wine and cheese tasting and no regrets there! A group of us from around the world met in a wine cellar just off the beaten track to learn about the French wines and cheeses and it was time I had a good lesson in both those topics instead of approaching them both rather blindly. Our sommelier was a hospitable young French fellow with a very thick accent, which you would expect when attending such an event. He was really great with us and taught a lot.  I think my favourite comment was when someone asked how to make wine last for more than one day after it's open. He joked that he has never had that experience!

 Now let's see what I remember. I remember that there were some people who cancelled so it meant more for the rest of us. I also recall that many people around the table were not wine drinkers which surprised me that they were at a wine tasting.

Anyway, we began with a champagne which is typically drank here before dinner. If it is a special night such as a first date, it was suggested that a little black current (creme de cassis) is added for a Kir Royale (as opposed to a kir which is white wine with creme de cassis and a favourite of mine!). He said that would impress the women. He also shared that the lady who has the last drop from the bottle is to be married by the end of the year. Now, seeing as that was me, I guess we'll just have to wait and see if that happens...
We went on to share 4 other lovely wines - a white which was quite fruity and I loved, a rose and 2 reds. The first red was amazing and I ended up purchasing a bottle. Apparently the year 2005 was a good one and that was the date of this South Western wine which is a combination of negette,cabernet sauvignon and syrah. I look forward to having it at home. We ended with a little bonus, a sweet sweet wine from the Rhone region.

Oh yah, there was cheese! It was actually quite a spread with bread, some meats and cheeses that were all very good and ranged from camembert to a cheese that was 98% fat and tasted like butter cheese (that's the best I can do, but boy was it delicious spread on a baguette). Needless to say, I ate and drank a lot and upon leaving, am surprised I didn't buy more than one bottle!

In my remaining blur, I had a plan to go to the Musee de l'Orangerie, but this museum and I do not seem to want to connect. I have now visited it 3 times. Two times it's been closed and today they wouldn't let me in because I had a bottle. When plan a fails, plan b is shopping! But first, I needed water desparately! So a cafe for a caraffe d'eau and a smoothie then onto Galeries Lafayette, which is quite something in terms of the shopping and the design. Every designer you can imagine is housed on 7 floors and there is a whole food department which I had a great time perusing. Greatly similar to Harrods in London and packed with people. It was a little pricy for my tastes. The first pair of boots I picked up were 400 euros so I moved on.

Ceiling of Lafayette - nice shopping environment!

I was certainly ready to come home for a nap and something other than wine and cheese tonight. But I did end my day with some more antioxidants - some dark Belgian chocolate with vanilla.

Cheers to the divine food and drink experiences that the Parisians are sharing with me!

Pas de Fromage Aujourd'hui

Friends of Rayanne's - Karen and Delaney

I can't believe I didn't eat cheese today! The day isn't over yet...

Started the day meeting friends of a friend on the Champs d'Elysee for a cafe. It was great to compare notes with fellow Canadians (Vancouver) and share our experiences. Thanks Rayanne for setting that up! The coffee was a delight too, but that goes without saying. I did find it quite enlightening to see how much more a cafe au lait costs in a tourist zone; it was pretty much double from the local cafes I've been frequenting!

Baguette and a Bottle - no cheese though!

Spent most of the afternoon at the Musee D'Orsy which is a must for anyone coming to Paris, not only for the most wonderful collection (many of my favourites including Monet, Renoir, Van Gogh...) but for the spectacular building it is housed in. It is a converted train station and the architecture is so beautiful to see. I loved all parts of it!

 A little courtyard off what used to be a mansion on Ile-St. Louis

Kid in a Candy Shop!

Then my wandering began for the late afternoon. I had planned to do many things but ended up strolling down St. Germain de Pres, admiring cafes, stopping for a most late lunch (I've decided everything tastes better on a baguette, even eggs, tomatoes and lettuce!), and popping into the odd shop here and there. Which led me to ice cream. Imagine that! I just happened to find the ice cream shop from the other night; perhaps a mere COINCIDENCE? Salted Caramel/Banana double scoop. Well worth the stroll and maybe I'll just find it again! So this wonderful ice cream is actually found on the Ile de la Cite (Berthillon is the brand for those of you curious ice cream critics), which also has many little shops, beautiful homes and cafes and was quite calm and serene this afternoon so I spent time there wandering in and out of shops (let the shopping begin - although it is a tad overwhelming). Until I dropped and spent some time on the river bank beach reading and enjoying those around me speaking in French. Yet another great day in Paris, even without cheese (or wine)!

Lost and Found

The Cave

Parc Buttes-Chamont (maybe I should have labelled the running pic with this title:))

I really did go for a run! I just happened to be in a park close by, recommended through my brother in law, Park Buttes-Chaumont. It was beautiful (no really, the park was pretty, not just the people!). In that it is about 2 kilometres from my apartment, I will definitely head back there to run or picnic or check out this chocolate/bike shop Tracy, the wonder web surfer, located for me! The park is very scenic and even has a small cave with stalactites and quite a waterfall. So I managed to start my day by losing myself in this hilly park and really getting lost on the way home. I find it easy to do here as street names change, or you miss one small little turn. Or you are so busy getting caught up in the life of the streets that you just end up in some place other than you planned. Which was the theme of my day overall!
After a few 'housekeeping' items which I find rather fun here (hanging laundry, grocery shopping, stopping at all the boulangeries to determine bread/pastry of the day...), I headed towards Montmartre. I was in a walking mode today since I basically stood in one place for most of yesterday. Thus I headed in what I thought was the right direction but again, missed a turn and ended up a little off my planned route. I believe Little India might have been where I ended up but whenever I have been lost or think I am lost, there is no doubt a metro station close by to help one get back on track. Eventually I rerouted to Montmartre, and loved it. This area is a sloped area of quaint cafes, shops, apartments and a large cathedral, Sacre Coeur. It's known for the Moulin Rouge, artists, windmills,a favourite movie of mine; Amelie, and a lot of tourists. I enjoyed getting lost in the streets, reading in a small park and sitting down for a cliche meal of French Onion Soup (which is served with bread and cheese; go figure!).

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In front of Sacre Coeur

The "rouge" light district

Continuing on the lost theme, which then became more of a wander, I headed towards the Opera area. Then realizing I was still happy to walk, I was determined to walk all the way home, which was quite a trek. But I've really got nothing but time, so this losing myself in Paris thing is really working for me!

My Morning Run...

Hee hee!

Geraniums for Maureen!

Maureen, you asked if there were geraniums, "because the French make geraniums look pretty" so here are a few photos I've taken with that in mind!

Bikes, Fast Bikes!

Isn't that Lance smiling for MY camera?

A blur...but the sound is soooooo cool!

Thor, the Norwegian favourite.

Last I wrote I believe I was heading out to the Tour de France! That seems like eons ago as that is one long day of standing around. But well worth it! And the "Thor" fans from Norway kept us greatly entertained over the day by cheering on every police officer that walked by as well as by staying lively and well dressed. They seemed to be the most committed fans in terms of dress and flags. We Canadians stuck together though! There were a small group of us close to the finish line with a great view for about 8 loops of the riders. Quite incredible to see the movement in the group over that gap of time. I was more interested in perfecting the art of a good movement photograph; my post will tell! And my cycling friends will likely be able to identify those riders in the photos (did I catch Lance???) Many more photos of blurry movement and some clearer than that for those who are really interested!
 It was exciting to be a part of such fanfare (lucky me, for a second time in my life!). And that, was another day in Paris!

I Saw Dead People...or a Day in the Dark!

Lit up at the Eiffel Tower!

Pear Ice Cream in the area of Notre Dame - yummy

Bones and more bones!

Following the advice of my  friend Jen, I headed to the Catacombs yesterday and it was worth the hour line up. The story is one of, of course, death. But it truly is fascinating to be under the city in a quarry where the bones have been piled up in a rather honorable way (as much as skeletons can be honored I suppose!). One walks quite a ways underground to view the millions of bones that were remains of overfilled cemeteries. These tunnels have also been home to the Nazis and perhaps even marginal activity today! Haunting but fascinating!
The other course of my day found me of  in a cafe, at an organic market buying fresh goods (has anyone had these little peaches before???), wandering the Montparnasse area and then heading out for more darkness to a night tour on a bike/boat. What a wonderful way to view the city. Again, met some interesting people and found out about the best ice cream in the city. The city lit up is an incredible sight and I found it even more interesting to see how alive it was at midnight along the banks of the river, and even on the metro home! Everyone is out enjoying the night and having a good time whether sitting on a bridge with a large crowd of picnickers, or along the banks entertaining the tourists on boats, or just enjoying one another (this comes in a variety of forms!). My little cafe at the end of the street apparently turns into a small dance club on Saturday nights as there was quite a crowd drawn there.
Today I'm off to the tour. Not sure what to expect at this time of morning and had a number of chats with others last night about the best viewing potential (some military guys from Germany had come down just for the tour, and I also met some cyclists heading out tomorrow to do the Pyrenees leg of the tour to contribute to the Live Strong cause - one was an oncologist and he was doing it for his patients!).  The crowd potential is huge I'm certain, even though no fanfare is expected until 2ish! I will be cheering for our Canadian nonetheless and am very impressed with his performance! It's a little dreary here weatherwise, but I've found that doesn't necessarily mean it's cold. So off I go!
Hope everyone is well and wishing those of you who are doing your own cycling tour today all the best!

Dog Blog

I just have to say every time I hear a dog owner here say 'asayez vous' or 'allez' to their dog it makes me giggle. It seems like a lot of work to tell them to sit. The French do love their dogs and I love seeing them too!

It actually is all about the food!

Today I ate lunch. That's what it felt like because by the time you finish lunch in a cafe, your afternoon is pretty much devoured, along with the delicious food! And I have read over and over that the French mostly take 2 hour lunches as they love their food and so I too must love their food. I'm not having any difficulty with this.

So lunch. My challenge was to order in French. I succeeded. Although the mademoiselle was quite fixated on my e-reader more than what I was saying. But happily, I ordered and received, about an hour later, a glass of house chardonnay, a greek salad and tap water. No complaints of the wait, it was lovely to sit and read and watch people. And the rain that I had not planned for. So the delay in lunch was welcomed. The salad was so unbelievably fresh and tasty and BIG. Such delight in the flavours! After I savoured the food, and thought I could successfully ask for the bill (l'addition), I believe she must have read 'sweet tooth' on my forehead and ignored my request for the bill and rather brought me a chalk board with 'nos dessertes' on it. It was hard to choose but I went for the Pear Panna Cotta (at least the wine and bread were French), and was not disappointed. Before she brought some fancy coffee list, I decided it was indeed time to go, even though it meant walking in the rain, but walking was welcomed to digest some of that food!

On the topic of food, how is it that yogurt tastes better here? Activa yogurt that we can get there is the most creamy decadent treat; like eating dessert!

I do like the format of buying food here a lot. There's something about picking up freshness from each little place and I enjoyed the most decadent pastry with pears and chocolate together yesterday. There are many more to try...but gotta pace myself!

Seriously didn't do much else today. Walked down the Champs-Elysee this evening and took many many photos of the Arc de Triumphe. It is tourist crazy there (and set up for the tour de France finale - something tells me those stands are not set up for moi!).

Ended my day most suitedly with a chocolat chaud at the cafe down the street from me. Delicious Day.

Gearing up for the Tour

Although I've seen very little evidence in the city of the looming Tour de France finale here, except a few bleachers from a distance, I geared up yesterday on my own tour de Paris en bicyclette with a company known as Fat Tire Bike Tours. I highly recommend them for a different way to view the city and plan to join them at some point for their night tour which is combined with a river boat ride.

So after a very slow start to the day, which I'm replicating today and rather enjoying (I finally feel part of the awake world now that the jet lag has passed!), I joined a group of tourists under the Eiffel tour. Met some great educators (aren't they all great?) from North Carolina (shared dinner with them later), Belgium, Australia and Finland! The tour was fun and took us to a variety of sights from the tower to the Concorde and the Hopital de Invalides. Learned a lot about Napolean as well as King Louis XIV who loved his calves and high heels, http://www.randomhistory.com/1-50/036heels.html (really, this link is interesting, scroll about half way down to picture of man in high heels!). So glad I did that!

The tour ended around 7 so I wandered a little and thought that it would probably be a good time to ascend the Eiffel tower as sunset would be upon the city and that would be a lovely time to be up there. So I climbed up to the second platform which is as far as you can go on foot. And I waited and waited and waited...but that sun never goes down it seems. Thus I chose to move on, took some twilight pictures and call it a night. I will go back though as it is truly picturesque and an amazement in day and lights.

I think it's about time to venture over to a cafe...

Depictions of a Tower

Late start to today and late end ...so I'm just going to share a piece of my day that mainly centered around the Eiffel Tower. Here's a photo montage of what I assumed were student art pieces (there were on 2 long rows of pillars on a back road I discovered) which I couldn't resist capturing. And then there's the real thing too...Good night!