Happy Time!

Even the pigeons will be missed?

My niece Carly calls Happy Hour, Happy Time. I think that the Parisians also have happy time; all the time! And I am so fortunate to have experienced this alongside them and within this wonderful city I have fallen in love with. So bare with me as I reflect on some of my memories, or happy time!

Happy Time - sleeping with my shuttered windows open every night and feeling the fresh air waft over me.
Happy Time - not just one, but two garbage pick ups every morning (even Sunday). And these trucks are not any quiet sort but reminded me of a great attempt to keep the city clean. They also acted as a very diligent alarm each day!

Happy Time - people greeting one another with the double kiss
Happy time - the two gentlemen yelling very loudly outside my window reminding me of the passionate French people. They were yelling at each other and were not so happy. Maybe it was about curbing their dogs? Maybe it was a domestic dispute? Nonetheless, they were not happy!
Happy Time - a kir (wine and black currant sweet decadence) on a cafe, street front
Happy Time - pink toilet paper!
Happy Time - accordian music on the metro

Happy Time - wine, cheese, bread, wine, cheese, bread, wine, cheese, bread...

Happy Time - saying bonjour and au revoir everytime you enter and exit a store. Makes it so much more personal.
Happy Time - creme brulee!
Happy Time - feeling safe most everywhere
Happy Time - the flowers, the markets, the cafes, the parks, the gardens, the architecture, the people, the language, the pastries and the art of the patisserie, the music, the metro, the pigeons, the dogs............

As you can see, Happy Time far outweighs the unhappy time here in Paris. I have absolutely adored my trip and could stay another 3 weeks and still not have tried every food item, viewed every historic venue or been in every boutique that I would like. My experiences as they are have been absolutely memorable and I will look back on it all with a great adoration. However, sadly I must say bon soir to the city of lights and be hopeful that I will return another time.

Thanks to all of you who have shared the journey with me, it has been so much fun to correspond and highlight my wandering experiences! I look forward to talking to each of you soon in person,

Love, Tanis xo (and that's a french kiss (now now, think one cheek then the other people!!))

C'est fini!

Finale

Seeing as it is my last day, it has been kind of unfocused, indecisive, yet still a lovely Paris day. The weather was chillier than I've found, there is a wind today that felt a little colder. It was perfect for my final morning run in the park I have grown to love on every day that I have run in it. I have enjoyed so much watching the people, some running, some walking, some meditating; it's a lovely setting to do any of the aforementioned and such a haven for me. I considered going back today for a picnic, but the cooler weather suggested to me that I was meant to enjoy it for my running ritual and that is what my memory will be.

Last day walking down Rivoli

I headed out to do some errands today. There is a tax credit available if you purchase a certain amount in one store, which I did. But, the day I shopped, I did not have my passport with me, so had to go back to show it. So, on my journey to do this, I meandered through one more market area and found myself haggling with a lady over some scarves. She was very sweet.
So, I think my stomach is finally starting to feel ready for a change (did I really say that?), so one more meal tonight then back into transition mode!
However, did stop to take some pictures of some mouth watering window displays...

And, okay, maybe I did stop and go into one...

That chocolate/pear tarte just called out to me

I had to giggle when I was asked today what my home city was and when I shared Edmonton, the lady repeated, Badminton? Non, Edmonton. Ahhh, Edmontown? I just left it. Maybe we should be Edmontown!

As for that one more meal I mentioned, it was a good one. I chose a restaurant based on a blog by David Lebovitz (http://www.davidlebovitz.com/paris/) and I was not disappointed. Once again I found myself back in the Marais district and loving it at 'Ma Bourgogne'. The service, setting and food were all top notch. The waiters went out of their way to let me garble my way through the French language, but they also spoke English. I asked for their recommendations and they were good. The salad I began with of tomatoes, cucumbers and green beans was so tasty.

After my meal, in Tanis style, I walked home. I found myself in the Belleville region, which might be otherwise known as Chinatown? Nonetheless, there was a great deal of activity throughout.
Home now, thinking about packing and organizing and maybe heading out later for one last kir...

Amelie

One of my favorite movies of all time is Amelie. It takes place in Paris, mainly the Montmartre area, and is a "whimsical depiction of contemporary Parisian life, set in Montmartre. It tells the story of a shy waitress, played by Audrey Tautou, who decides to change the lives of those around her for the better, while struggling with her own isolation."  I've seen it several times and thought today, since I wanted to return to Montmartre to pick up a piece of art I was dwelling on, that I would take a little Amelie tour.

If you've seen the movie, this is a little room off la toilette, and something somewhat 'earth shattering' takes place here!

So I started by arriving at the Métro Lamarck-Caulaincourt and then found my way to the Cafe des Deux Moulins to have a little bite to eat. I have to admit, it is as quirky as it is in the film and there were, amongst some tourists, some interesting characters lulling about. I enjoyed my lunch there (as always, cheese was plentiful on my open veggie croute) and lingered over a cafe creme for part of the afternoon.

That was the extent of my Amelie tour, as shopping once more took over my brain and legs. A few (I'll let you fill in the blanks with any number) shops and bags later, I decided to head back home to drop them off at home for the evening. My afternoon was really nice wandering the streets of Montmartre; it's a quaint and artsy area that is quite lively and worth a visit if you are in the vicinity.

Just another lovely scene in Montmartre

A Dreamy Destination for an Artist, Photographers and Tourists

Hard to believe this is real!

Monet's Gardens at Giverny delivered. For those who love flowers, impressionism and a beautiful French setting in the countryside, Giverny is the place to visit. It's fairly easy to get to by train and is set up for tourists to catch a bus, a bike or a taxi from the village of Vernon, up to the site of Monet's beautiful art. When I first arrived I feared that it would be just a tourist lure, as there was quite a line to get into the gardens. But I bore into it and was not disappointed. I think I took over 100 photos in less than 45 minutes!

Monet's home

Water lilies

I was quited surprised by the artist's house, as it is a fairly nice size, furnished sweetly and adorned with Japanese art. I wondered if maybe it had been changed since his death, however, there are photos of him with the same art on his walls. Unfortunately there are no photos to be taken in the house. However, the gardens and the waterlilies; have at her! And I did. As a flower lover (thanks mom!), it was a true adventure in such a variety of blooms. And they went on and on.

The water lilies are something else! It is just like being in one of his paintings (except for the tourists). There are the bridges, the boats, the weeping trees. I was in awe and loved every minute.

An example of one of the country homes

I spent some time walking through the 'street' of Giverny and taking in beautiful homes that truly capture the French look. It was a beautiful day to venture to the Monet's grave sight as well. I then headed back into Paris, sharing great conversation with a woman from Spain taking a 3 week French language course just outside of Paris (hmmmm, sounds intriguing...).

More cheese...and bread!

Then it was back to the big city to do a bit of shopping and actual buying! Had a nice dinner in the Latin Quarter which is always so fun to walk through. Thought I might have even been sick of cheese until I had the warm goat cheese salad, nope, still loving the cheese. Note, not only does bread come with the meal, but also is on the salad! Oh my!  Followed by a crepe for dessert and I think we can call it a night.

Shopping...Dropping...

Shopping is tiring but I love it - especially here! That was my day (on top of the usuals - running in my favourite park, sitting at a cafe for a cafe creme, seeing neat people on the metro)! I hit the Marais again, a few shops on St. Michels and into one of the districts known for better shopping. Mainly I spent a great deal of time in the Bon Marche and thoroughly enjoyed the eye candy throughout the store in terms of perfumes, jewlery and the major designer's new collections for the fall. I'm not claiming in any way to be high fashion, but it is fun to peruse the looks. Ended up spending most of the time there in the rather large food floor (I'm sure you are surprised). So fun to look at all the oils and vinegars, chocolates, syrups and variety of specialty items. I purchased some petit macarons today of some obscure flavours - cerise hibiscus, lime ginger, chocolate banana, apricot, salted caramel, vanille, and some others that I am having difficulty recalling. I'm really becoming hooked on these little morsels. If you are intrigued by them as well, here's a fun blog review of the Parisian treats. http://www.syrupandtang.com/200806/the-macarons-of-paris-2008-review/

Shopping was quite a nice environment to choose today, shops all over were quiet and you could even hear the rain pouring on the roof of the Bon Marche.

A colorful array of macarons (they don't travel in a shopping bag well) with the cutest bottle of apple juice from Le Bon Marche.

As I do touch on fashion a little here, I have noticed that the woman in Paris have a rather casual unassuming style. I haven't seen anyone really dressed to the nines, most are classy in their understatements. But one thing I have noted is that showing bra straps are not an issue for anyone here, I even saw a bride in her dress with her straps showing. An interesting style.

I believe I saw Ms. Jay Alexander today in the metro. I could be wrong but it sure sounded and looked like him...I should have said something as I was a foot away from him. Those of you who admit to watching America's Next Top Model will know who I am referring to (sad but true!).

One more aside. The red wine I bought at the market has now been opened and is a nice compliment to dark chocolate!

Another great day in Paris!

Lazy, Hazy Day

Had to include a token pigeon shot - he too was having a lazy day in Paris!

My Cafe

I guess you could call it a lazy and somewhat hazy day here. A lot of things are closed, either just pour dimanche or some people just close up shop for the summer days and leave the city. My lazy day started with a visit to the local market down the street from me. The merchants were particularly friendly today and many called out to get me to buy or gave free samples. The cutest little old lady that I purchased a tomato/cheese tarte from, gave me a cream puff type deal sans la creme (you may ask what's the point, but it was still good and a generous gesture). Of course a Sunday morning, or pretty much any morning here would not be complete without my cafe au lait at my favourite little cafe down the street. It really is literally at the bottom of stairs at the end of my short little street!
I slowly got my butt in gear to get to an art market in the Montparnasse area and enjoyed many of the pieces by local artists. I supported one; a colorful piece of Notre Dame. After that, laziness truly kicked in. I had packed a little picnic and went to the Luxembourg Gardens. Spent most of the afternoon reading there and taking in the beautiful setting. When the sun peeked out, it was hot!

Bee Keeping in the Gardens

Lazy was lost when I decided to walk home and saw what feels like most of the south east quadrant of the city! Guess I was feeling like I needed to burn off that creme brulee I had stopped for earlier...
That brings me into the evening already and the sun is out finally so just enjoying my open windows and the sounds of the street below.

You didn't think I'd let a day pass without a food picture!

The Louis Vuitton Window on Champs Elysee

A few of you have asked about prices. Hmmm. I'm not going to say it's really cheap here, I would say that food is rather pricy if you eat out a lot. I have mainly had one bigger meal in the day and then either buy snacks (ie decadent pastries, ice cream, kir) throughout the day. The picnic thing really is the ideal and I enjoy the open markets and small little places to pick up this and that. My cafe (it is now in the possessive) is mostly reasonable, wine is cheaper than coffee there and a cafe au lait is 3 euros. Not too terribly different from Starbucks, and the coffee is so much better, REALLY (but so much smaller of course)! This is coming from a starbucks addict. As for everything else, real estate seems varied. Apartments can range from 80000 E to 2 million from what I've viewed. I compare it to home and then I remember it's an apartment! Clothes and stuff is comparable depending where you shop. Monoprix is a department store that might compare to Sears? LaFayette would be an upscale Holt Renfrew. Then there are the boutiques and designers and some of the Louis Vuitton prices I have viewed are outrageous. So hopefully that answers some questions!
There's also been some questions about cleanliness. Heather, you warned me it's not a clean city. No, it's not. There is a lingering pee smell in many places and dogs aren't often cleaned up after. However, there are garbage facilities and recycling available all along the street and I find it ironic and a little disruptive to have the loudest possible garbage pick up twice every morning (even Sundays!). Upkeep of public facilities is really constant as well, even the public toilets (which I had an entertaining encounter in, but that's for another blog).
Hope everyone is having the most relaxing of long weekends at home! Love to you all!

Morocco, Marais and Music

The Marais District

My Paris Maillot!

A girl cannot live on bread, cheese and wine, although I've been trying very hard! So I had a few quests in mind yesterday. First one was to find a bike store and check out their goods. I had 2 in mind, but unfortunately the one combined with a chocolate theme was no longer at its address that I had. So St. Laurent's family bike store it was. I managed to find a great little jersey (maillot) in a very very crowded little environment. Happy to have got there right in the midst of a quick rain shower - my timing was impeccable.

My second quest was to find a Moroccan restaurant (you didn't think I could stay off the topic of food for long...) for couscous. I had read about 404, which was the quaintest little authentic restaurant, just off the Marais district, and I was not disappointed. I ate a delicious roasted red pepper, garlic and tomato salad as a starter and it was soooo tasty! The couscous was divine and is meant for you to combine on your own. So a separate plate of the best couscous I've had, to be mixed with a delicious vegetable stew (there are many varieties with meat as well), and raisins, chick peas and some really hot and spicy sauce. I was so hungry at this point but couldn't eat even half it was so large. But I enjoyed every morsel and the servers were really helpful. Others in the restaurant were having a brunch which looked terrific as well. If I had more time...

YUM!

So, let the shopping begin. The Marais district, right around the City Hall (L'hotel de ville), is where I headed right after my late lunch. This is an area with a rather liberal crowd and many little stores, cafes, museums. Victor Hugo spent time in this area, living and writing there. I did visit the little square he frequented and actually had a little nap in the park there (after devouring a wonderful "little" cream and chocolate mousse filled cake, with pears on top).

But back to shopping. I think I'm in trouble here! The boutiques are so cute, unique and special. There are sales on. There are a lot of stores. Uh oh. Enough said. The only drawback is that because the fashions are often one of a kind, they don't always have my size. One could see this as a blessing, or a downfall. I haven't bought anything yet...

The rest of the day, into evening, was spent at the City Hall listening to some great bands (one was called Lily Wood and the Prick - pronounced Preek (ha!)). It was part of the Beach Summer series for those Parisians stuck in the city in the warm months. I loved sitting out until about 10 in the warm air, taking in the music, the people and the city. There was a most entertaining man dancing and I did catch a video of him, but not sure I can post it here with my technology. I have to admire the drinking laws here though (there virtually are none from what I know). No one abuses it or seems to overdo it. Kinda nice to see.

My day ended at my local cafe where my 'monsieur' offered me a kir with framboise which was a nice tasty diversion from the black currant variety. I love this drink. Quite sweet and fruity and the other day I had one of my favourites that was almost floral. A nice summer refreshment.

But that's when I called it a night! And...another wonderful day in Paris!

An Evening About Town

Paris At Dusk

A few tidbits from Paris at dusk...

Last night I attended a concert at St. Chapelle featuring a String Quintet playing Vivaldi. Absolutely movng in terms of both the setting and the music.

The Stunning Stained Glass at St. Chapelle

I also wandered through the Latin Quarter and plan to return for a dinner or meal at some point.



And fell upon the huge Pantheon which is home to a great number of tombs including Victor Hugo, Rousseau, Voltaire and Marie Curie.

The Pantheon

Mostly just enjoyed walking in the evening air and taking shots here and there.

Extravagances

The Hall of Mirrors

Approaching the Grounds of Chateau Versailles

I am always so intrigued by the wealth and abundance of historic figures, for example, Marie Antoinette and the Kings who inhabited Chateau de Versailles in earlier centuries. Today, I spent a most beautiful day in Versailles, again experiencing the sights through the biking tour company, and again, well worth it! Our day began with a short train ride out to Versailles, bikes and all! We stopped for about an hour in the town of Versailles (separate from the nearby city of Versailles) to attend and purchase picnic goods from a colorful market. Our guide was super at pointing us in the right direction for truly amazing purchases. He even began by suggesting a nourishing pre-market snack of a crepe; my first one and memorable at that. I chose the Grand Marnier and Sugar type and oh my! Such a delight to taste buds, especially when the fellow making them kept adding more of the liqueur!

Cheese! Baguettes!

Onward to the wine market (are you seeing a trend here?) where I chose a fruity red from the Rhone region. Followed by the boulangerie, which I have to say is the best one I've been to yet. I didn't realize that baguettes can be so different from one place to the next. This one was heavenly and just out of the oven. I also bought a chocolate tarte. Onward to some other fresh options, a big back of cherries (under 2 euros!), and some recommended creamy cheese covered in raisins and oh so yummy. But wait, I'm getting ahead of the picnic.
We rode out of the town and circled the sight of the Chateau and it is rather large and beautifully landscaped but also has its own natural terrain. I love thinking about the history that took place where we were, it really is rather surreal. Our guide, Andrew, was really fun and shared interesting information and good tips throughout the tour.
So sitting by the water for our picnic was such a great scene to partake in as it was a warm day and we shared our food, voiced our wine preferences and just got to know the group. It was a delicious spread!!!

Marie Antoinette's Bedroom - can you imagine?

Golden Gates

The actual chateau is huge. Traditionally the gold was real, but it is now painted, as it was sold following the revolution in order for the people to gain some revenue from a country fallen. The extravagance is beyond description within the walls and the photos don't really capture the excess. The hall of mirrors is something else and in its time would have been beyond indulgent. Living in the times would have been quite something, if and only if, you were part of this in-crowd.

The Gardens at Versailles

It was a quick ride from the Chateau back to the townsite and we hopped onto the train back to Paris, rode our bikes back to the tour core and called it a day; and another good one. I'm beat from the heat, the activities and mostly, all that indulgence of food and drink!